This was my second trip to the Udupi coastal region and somehow, it felt like coming back to a story that was still writing itself.
Unlike the last time, I decided to take a bus from Belagavi to Brahmavara,a small town that always feels like a painting in motion. The journey was scenic, and the single-lane highways gave that slow, rhythmic charm you only get when you’re not rushing.
I reached Brahmavara around 4:30 AM, right in front of Fortune Plaza Hotel, a fantastic business stop if you’re travelling towards Kundapura or Mangalore. After checking in, I went for a walk with my friend, Prasad Shetty, who was also staying there. The air was fresh, the river ran quietly beside us, and the houses along the way looked like postcards. We ended our walk with a cup of hot tea and a plate of Upma topped with dried poha at a small, old-style eatery run by two retired gentlemen. Probably the best Upma I’ve ever had and I say that as someone who has written a whole article called The Upma Universe.
Once the day’s work began, we met a few customers and stopped for lunch at Vanas, Mangalore, where, in true coastal style another friend, Shrinivas Shetty, appeared out of nowhere.
See, one good thing about a trip to this region is that once you meet one Shetty, you somehow end up meeting five more. It’s like a coastal chain reaction…one Shetty leads to another. And each comes with their own stories, humour, and hospitality that never seems to run out.
By evening, after dropping a colleague at Kundapura for his next leg of the journey, Prasad and I decided to go for a drive. What began as a small nature detour turned into something beautiful winding through Mandarthi (Prasad’s hometown), Avarse, and finally stopping at King Family Restaurant, Hengavalli, surrounded by nothing but forest and quiet.
That’s where Rajath Shetty joined us..a Dubai-based businessman spending three months at his roots, building his home back in his village. His story was inspiring, a reminder that success feels fuller when it circles back to where it began.
On the way back, something unexpected caught our eye…a Yakshagana performance in Mandarthi, the kind that fills the night air with music and myth. We stopped to watch for a few minutes, and for a brief moment, it felt like living inside Kantara.
The next day began early — 3:45 AM, to be exact, as we headed to Malpe fish harbour. The scene was extraordinary: hundreds of boats, people shouting prices, fish being loaded and iced in a rhythm that could only be described as organized chaos. It was like watching an economy breathe before sunrise.
Later that day, after picking up a friend at Barkur station, we stopped at Sai Fish Land for lunch, my friends ordered seafood; I stayed loyal to eggs.
But the real highlight of the evening was our houseboat experience…a four-hour river journey that felt like therapy. Just four of us, soft music, good food, and a sunset over mangroves and shipyards. Peace in motion.
The next morning, another round of Malpe, followed by breakfast at Bhattar Hotel, Hebri, with another friend — Pramod Shetty. Between the kotte kadubu, neer dosa, idiyappam with coconut milk, and Mangalore buns, they moved with such speed and coordination, it felt like watching a perfectly rehearsed dance…only with idlis and dosas instead of costumes.
Before heading back, Pramod took us to a sports club he’s helping build near Brahmavara — surrounded by nature and energy. We wrapped up the trip with a final sunset by the sea near Kundapura…calm, golden, and deeply satisfying, just like Kodi Beach itself
And then came the return journey…I boarded the good old VRL, the “everyman’s chariot” that creaks, halts, and still somehow gets you home. My friend, on the other hand, sailed back in Arjuna Travels, the coastal legend of luxury on wheels. Both of us left the coast the same night one in comfort, one in character.
The coast always gives more than you plan for more friends, more food, and more stories. Some travel for leisure. I, apparently, travel for personal growth.
Disclaimer: No feelings were hurt during the making of this journey except my back, thanks to VRL’s “vibrant” suspension system.
